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Product guide3 min readUpdated

Fabric Guide for Clothing Brands: Cotton, Fleece, Terry, Linen, Blends and GSM Explained

Fabric is the biggest factor in how your clothes feel, fit and sell, and the biggest line on your cost sheet. A plain-language guide to choosing it.

Short answerChoose fabric by product and climate: cotton single jersey for tees, fleece or French terry for hoodies, linen, cotton or rayon for summer wovens, and polyester blends for activewear. GSM (grams per square metre) tells you the weight; for example, about 160 to 200 GSM for regular tees and 220 to 260 GSM for heavyweight oversized tees. Always confirm composition and GSM in writing and check them on the sample.

Knits vs wovens

Knit fabricsWoven fabrics
How it is madeInterlocking loopsThreads crossed at right angles
StretchNatural stretchLittle or none, unless blended with spandex
ExamplesJersey, rib, interlock, fleece, French terry, piquePoplin, twill, denim, linen, cambric, crepe
Typical productsTees, hoodies, joggers, polos, kidswearShirts, trousers, kurtas, dresses, jackets
India hubTiruppur, Ludhiana, KolkataSurat, Bengaluru, Delhi NCR, Jaipur

Common knit fabrics

  • Single jersey: the classic t-shirt fabric, smooth on one side.
  • Rib: stretchy with visible ridges; used for cuffs, collars and fitted tops.
  • Interlock: thicker, smooth on both sides, stable; popular for baby wear.
  • Pique: textured, breathable; used for polo shirts.
  • French terry: loops on the inside; for year-round sweatshirts and joggers.
  • Fleece: brushed on the inside for warmth; for winter hoodies.

Common woven fabrics

  • Poplin and cambric: smooth, crisp cotton for shirts and kurtas.
  • Twill: diagonal weave, durable; for chinos and workwear.
  • Denim: sturdy cotton twill for jeans and jackets.
  • Linen: very breathable with a natural texture; wrinkles easily.
  • Rayon (viscose): soft and drapey; popular for kurtas and dresses.
  • Mulmul and voile: very light cottons for summer wear.
  • Georgette and crepe: flowy synthetics or blends for festive and western wear.

Cotton quality terms

  • Carded vs combed: combed cotton removes short fibres for a smoother, stronger fabric.
  • Bio-washed: enzyme-treated for softness and less pilling.
  • Compacted or pre-shrunk: processed to reduce shrinkage after washing.
  • Organic: grown without synthetic pesticides and fertilisers; ask for certification if you market it.
  • Yarn count: higher counts mean finer yarn and a smoother fabric.

What GSM to choose

ProductTypical GSM range
Light summer tee140 to 170
Regular tee170 to 200
Heavyweight oversized tee220 to 260+
Polo shirt (pique)200 to 240
Sweatshirt or French terry hoodie260 to 320
Heavyweight fleece hoodie350 to 450

These are common ranges, not rules. Ask for a fabric swatch and feel it before deciding.

Fabric checks before bulk production

  • Weigh a swatch or sample to confirm GSM.
  • Wash-test for shrinkage, colour bleeding and twisting.
  • Rub-test dark colours for colour transfer.
  • Check that bulk uses the same fabric lot as the approved sample.

Put your fabric choices in a tech pack, or ask Voz Cruda to recommend fabrics for your product and budget.

Frequently asked questions

What does GSM mean in fabric?

GSM means grams per square metre. It measures fabric weight: a higher GSM fabric is heavier and usually thicker, while a lower GSM fabric is lighter and cooler.

What is the difference between knit and woven fabric?

Knit fabric is made from interlocking loops, so it stretches, like t-shirt jersey and fleece. Woven fabric is made by crossing threads at right angles, so it is more stable, like shirting, denim and linen.

What is combed cotton?

Combed cotton has been combed to remove short fibres and impurities before spinning. The resulting yarn is smoother and stronger, giving a softer, more even fabric than carded cotton.

Which fabric is best for Indian summers?

Light, breathable fabrics such as lightweight cotton jersey, cotton mulmul, linen and linen blends, and rayon work well in hot and humid weather.

Are cotton-polyester blends good for a clothing brand?

Blends shrink less, dry faster and cost less, which suits merchandise, team wear and activewear. Pure cotton usually feels more premium and breathable for fashion basics.

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