Step 1: Choose the fabric
Fabric decides how your tee feels, drapes and lasts. The most common options:
| Fabric | Feel | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| 100% cotton single jersey | Soft, breathable | Everyday and oversized tees |
| Combed cotton | Smoother, more even than carded | Premium basics |
| Bio-washed cotton | Softer, less pilling | Premium feel at a small extra cost |
| Cotton-polyester blend | Less shrinkage, quicker drying | Merchandise, team and event wear |
| Polyester (dri-fit) | Light, moisture-wicking | Sportswear and activewear |
Step 2: Pick the right GSM
Our fabric guide covers GSM for every product.
GSM (grams per square metre) measures fabric weight. Heavier fabric feels more premium and holds structure; lighter fabric is cooler.
- 160 to 180 GSM: light everyday tees, summer wear, merchandise.
- 180 to 220 GSM: mid-weight regular-fit tees with a quality feel.
- 220 to 260+ GSM: heavyweight oversized streetwear tees with a structured drape.
Step 3: Decide the fit
- Regular: classic fit, works for most customers.
- Oversized: dropped shoulders, wider body and longer sleeves. Popular in streetwear.
- Boxy: wide and slightly cropped.
- Slim: closer to the body, often with some stretch.
Write measurements for every size in a tech pack. Our tech pack guide shows the key points to measure, and the t-shirt tech pack example shows a complete size chart.
Step 4: Choose a print method
For a deeper comparison, read screen printing vs DTF vs DTG.
| Method | Best for | Small batch fit | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Screen printing | Bold designs with few colours | Good from moderate quantities | Very durable; each colour needs a screen |
| DTF (direct to film) | Multi-colour and detailed designs | Excellent | No screens; works on cotton and blends |
| DTG (direct to garment) | Photographic, full-colour art | Excellent | Best on cotton; softer hand-feel |
| Puff print | Raised, textured graphics | Moderate | Popular in streetwear |
| Embroidery | Logos, small premium details | Good | Cost depends on stitch count |
What drives t-shirt cost
- Fabric and GSM: heavier and combed or bio-washed cotton costs more.
- Quantity: setup costs spread over more pieces means a lower unit price. This is why pooling helps.
- Colours: custom dyed colours can carry dye-lot minimums.
- Decoration: number of print colours, print size and placements.
- Branding: custom neck labels, hang tags and packaging.
How to order a small batch of custom tees
- Finalise fabric, GSM, fit, colours and print in a simple tech pack.
- Join or start a pooled t-shirt lot on Smallotz, or request a direct quote if you need 300+ pieces per style.
- Approve a sample: measure it, wash it and check print quality.
- Confirm quantity, size split and delivery date in writing.
- Check pieces on arrival, then reorder the colours and sizes that sell.
Where t-shirts are made in India
Tiruppur in Tamil Nadu is India's best-known knitwear cluster and the usual choice for cotton tees, from fabric knitting to printing and stitching. Kolkata and Ludhiana also produce knitwear. See our guide to India's apparel hubs and our Tiruppur buyer's guide.
Ready to make your first batch? Open Smallotz or read the full low MOQ clothing guide.
Frequently asked questions
What is the MOQ for custom t-shirts in India?
Many factories ask for 300 to 1,000 pieces per style for fully custom t-shirts, often with a per-colour minimum. Small units accept less at a higher price, and pooled lots on Smallotz let you order smaller quantities at close to bulk pricing.
What GSM is best for an oversized t-shirt?
Oversized streetwear tees are commonly made in 220 to 260 GSM cotton for a heavier, structured drape. Regular-fit everyday tees are often 160 to 200 GSM.
Which printing method is best for small batches?
DTF and DTG are cost-effective for small runs and multi-colour designs because they need no screens. Screen printing gives excellent durability and becomes cheaper per piece as quantity grows, especially for designs with few colours.
What is bio-washed cotton?
Bio-washing is an enzyme treatment that removes loose surface fibres from cotton. It gives the fabric a smoother, softer feel and reduces pilling.
How long does it take to make custom t-shirts?
After sample approval, small batches of custom tees typically take a few weeks, depending on fabric availability, dyeing and printing. Add time for sampling and, with pooled orders, for the lot to fill.